Important Sterling Silver and Vermeil Cologne Bottle, "Martele", Designed by Theodore B. Starr for Gorham Manufacturing Company, Provincetown, RI, 1897
Engraved "SMcL"
Gorham responded to the Arts and Crafts Movement through their limited line of silverware, "Martele". It is derived from the French word marteler, meaning "to hammer." Production began in 1896 and the first piece released a year later. The line focused on the texture and aesthetics produced by the primarily tool used: the hammer. Martele masterfully illustrates the juxtaposition of the hammer's strength and rigidity with its ability to create a soft, mist-like finish on forms comprised of graceful forms and elements of nature. Subtle hammer marks in the silver's surface and detailed hand chasing add to each piece's unique identity. A coffee pot could be raised in one week and chased with an additional week of labor. A pepper shaker could be raised in three days and chased in two.
Chief executive Edward Holbrook and his chief designer from England, William Christmas Codman, directed the raising, hammering and chasing of 4,800 "works of art in silver". Officially introduced as Gorham's new line at the Exposition Universelle (1900) in Paris, public and critics vivaciously received Martele. Holbrook received the highest civilian honor given by the French government: Chevalier of the Legion d'Honneur. Codman won a gold medal. Gorham traveled back to the United States with five gold medals from the exposition.
The date mark of 1897 on this cologne bottle, made in collaboration with Theodore B. Starr, signifies it is one of the first pieces produced in this exclusive line. Product #6820. The following link illustrates the piece in the Gorham Archives at Brown University:
https://repository.library.brown.edu/studio/item/bdr:52220/
8 1/2" height, 3 1/4" width. 10.52 troy ounces.